南宋女性裤装的“时尚”新变——从《中兴瑞应图》说起
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中国传媒大学,北京 100024

作者简介:

张玲(1972—),女,哈尔滨人,博士,中国传媒大学教授,博士生导师,主要研究方向为中国传统服饰文化、影视服饰文化。

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国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(19BG105)


Fashion Transformation of Women’s Trousers in the Southern Song Dynasty: Starting from the “Painting of Auguries of Revival”
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Communication University of China, Beijing 100024, China

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    摘要:

    聚焦南宋女性日常服饰中一个特别的新品类——裆裤,厘清其发展脉络及在宋代乃至中华服饰文化中的历史地位。以南宋院体画《中兴瑞应图》为研究起点,结合图像、文献、实物证据,对裆裤的出现、流行与普及予以逐次钩考,探查其在南宋不同时期、不同阶层女性群体中的传播及流变特征,并从工艺技术层面实证裆裤内蕴的文化价值,进而从社会环境、女性权益、时尚风习三个维度探源裆裤兴起的时代动因。裆裤的历史发生,实现了汉族上层女性裤装由“内衣”向“外衣”的跨越式转变,突破了长期以来女装“借用”男装要素的既有传统,创造出一种巧思创变的女裤新范式,风靡南宋百余年,在中华裤装发展史上具有划时代的标尺意义。

    Abstract:

    The work aims to focus on crotch trousers, a special type of women??s daily wearing emerging in the Southern Song Dynasty, to clarify its developmental course and historical place in the costume culture of the Song Dynasty and China. Based on the “Painting of Auguries of Revival”, the emergence, fashion and popularity of crotch trousers are examined combined with images, literature and physical artifacts to explore the spreading and evolving characteristics of crotch trousers in different social classes of women through different period in the Southern Song Dynasty. The cultural value of crotch trousers is revealed from the perspective of tailoring technology, and the driving force for the popularity of crotch trousers in the era is explored in three aspects-social environment, women??s rights and interests, and fashion. The historical emergence of crotch trousers is a symbol of quantal leap from underwear to outerwear for the upper class women of Han nationality, which has broken the away from the long tradition of emulating and adapting men??s clothing elements and created a new paradigm of women??s clothing ingeniously, becoming popular in the Southern Song Dynasty for more than 100 years and achieving remarkable significance in the history of Chinese trousers.

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张玲.南宋女性裤装的“时尚”新变——从《中兴瑞应图》说起[J].工业 工程 设计,2020,2(6):32-39. 复制

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  • 收稿日期:2020-10-08
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  • 在线发布日期: 2020-12-13
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