从《明皇幸蜀图》看唐代前期女子服饰特征与演变
作者:
作者单位:

新疆艺术学院 设计学院,乌鲁木齐 830049

作者简介:

夏侠(1981—),男,新疆人,硕士,新疆艺术学院设计学院副教授,主要研究方向为服饰设计与纺织工艺发展史。

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基金项目:

2019年度新疆自治区本科教育教学研究和改革项目(007);2018年度国家社科基金艺术学重大项目(18ZD20)


Characteristics and Evolution of Women??s Clothing in the Early Tang Dynasty from Tang Emperor Lee Lung-chi Fled to Sichuan
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Affiliation:

School of Design, Xinjiang Arts University, Urumqi 830049, China

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    摘要:

    通过解读《明皇幸蜀图》中的人物着装特征,探讨唐代前期女子服饰流行元素的来源和演化。主要采用文献查阅、比较研究等手段,联系当时的历史环境分析画中呈现的服饰信息,归纳其中的冠服类型与文化符号。对比古画《明皇幸蜀图》里的直观图像与其他历史资料,分别阐述襦裙、半臂、帷帽、风帽等服饰类型的造型特点及其产生渊源。指出《明皇幸蜀图》准确反映了唐代宫廷女子远行装束特征,其中存在明显的西北少数民族元素,并且还发展出多样化的穿搭方式。唐朝前期的潮流更迭并非是将之前的款式直接废弃,一些帽冠也另有原型。逃难过程中贵族女性穿着的服饰仍胡风浓郁,充分证明了当时民族文化融合的深入程度。

    Abstract:

    The work aims to study the origin and evolution of popular elements in women??s dress in the early Tang Dynasty by analyzing the clothing characteristics in Tang Emperor Lee Lung-chi Fled to Sichuan. By means of literature review, comparative research methods, etc., the clothing information in this painting is analyzed based on historical environment and the clothing style types and cultural symbol are summarized. By comparing the visual images in this painting and other historical information, the characteristics and origin of skirts, short sleeves, curtain hat, hood and other clothes are discussed. Tang Emperor Lee Lung-chi Fled to Sichuan accurately reflects the women’s travel attire characteristics in the palace of the Tang Dynasty. These clothes not only have obvious northwest minority element, but also reflect a variety of clothing matching way. In the early Tang Dynasty, the trend change is not to discard the previous styles directly, and some curtain hats have other prototypes. In the process of fleeing, the clothes worn by aristocratic women are still rich in Hu style, which fully proves the deep degree of national cultural integration at that time.

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夏侠.从《明皇幸蜀图》看唐代前期女子服饰特征与演变[J].工业 工程 设计,2020,2(6):45-50. 复制

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  • 收稿日期:2020-10-09
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  • 在线发布日期: 2020-12-13
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