江南常熟花边雕绣手工艺的百年历史与变迁
作者:
作者单位:

1. 常熟理工学院 纺织服装与设计学院,江苏 苏州 215500;2. 东南大学 艺术学院,南京 210000;3. 常熟花边厂研究所,江苏 苏州 215500

作者简介:

赵澄(1975—),女,博士生,教授,主要研究方向为艺术学理论、视觉传达设计。

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基金项目:

国家社科基金艺术学项目(21BG111)


One Hundred Years History and Change of Lace Cutwork Embroidery Handicraft in Changshu, South of Yangtze River
Author:
Affiliation:

1. School of Textile, Garment and Design, Changshu University of Technology, Jiangsu Suzhou 215500, China; 2. School of Art, Southeast University, Nanjing 210000, China; 3. Changshu Lace Factory Research Institute, Jiangsu Suzhou 215500, China

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    摘要:

    常熟花边又称常熟雕绣,是独具特色的地方工艺美术品,也是我国著名的出口手工艺品,2007年常熟花边雕绣技艺被列为第一批江苏省非物质文化遗产名录。常熟花边在传统江南民间刺绣工艺的基础上,吸收了欧洲的抽纱工艺,形成了清新淡雅的雕绣艺术风格。它在百年的发展历程中走过了初创期、成熟期、繁荣期、衰退期,20世纪70—80年代是常熟花边的辉煌时期,在国际市场上享有极高声誉。20世纪90年代之后,随着现代工业化的迅猛发展,致使我国传统手工艺受到极大影响,常熟花边难以适应新时代的需求日渐衰落。依据翔实史料文献,通过实地田野调查法,运用人类学等跨学科研究方法,叙述常熟花边雕绣手工艺发展的历史渊源,剖析其百年盛衰的历史成因,阐释在中西文化交融中它所承载的多元文化特征。常熟花边源于西方传教士在江南的宗教传播,上海徐家汇圣母院女工工场是江南花边手工艺的摇篮,也是中国女性职业教育的启蒙地。随着社会经济价值规律的变化,传统手工艺必将适应新时代的发展,进一步思考在全球一体化进程中,如何挖掘常熟花边产品在当代的多元价值,使现代化的花边工艺带给大众全新的审美体验与经济价值,实现社会转型下当代工艺美术品的创新与转化。

    Abstract:

    Changshu lace cutwork embroidery, also known as Changshu cutwork embroidery, is a unique local arts and crafts, as well as China's famous export handicrafts. In 2007, Changshu lace cutwork embroidery was listed in the first batch of Jiangsu Province intangible cultural Heritage list. On the basis of traditional ''Jiangnan'' folk embroidery, Changshu lace absorbs European drawnwork and forms a fresh and elegant artistic style of cutwork embroidery. In its hundred years' history, it has gone through the emerging period, mature period, prosperous period and declining period. In the 1970s and 1980s, Changshu lace was in its heyday and enjoyed a high reputation in the international market. After the 1990s, with the rapid development of modern industrialization, China's traditional handicraft has been extremely affected, Changshu lace is difficult to meet the needs of the new era, thereby declining day by day. Based on detailed historical documents, through field investigation and interdisciplinary research methods such as anthropology, this paper describes the historical origin of the development of Changshu lace cutwork embroidery handicraft, analyzes the historical causes of its rise and fall in one hundred years, and elucidates the multicultural characteristics it carries in the integration of Chinese and Western cultures. Changshu lace originated from the religious spread of western missionaries in ''Jiangnan'', and the female workers' workshop in Shanghai Xujiahui Notre Dame Cathedral is the cradle of lace handicraft in ''Jiangnan'', and also the birthplace of Chinese female vocational education. As the change of social economic law of value, traditional crafts will follow the trend of the new era, further thinking in the process of globalization, how to excavate diversified value of Changshu lace products in contemporary, make modern lace craftsmanship bring new aesthetic experience and economic value to the public, and realize the innovation and transformation of contemporary arts and crafts under the social transformation.

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赵澄,李轶南,陆皓东.江南常熟花边雕绣手工艺的百年历史与变迁[J].工业 工程 设计,2022,4(3):10-18. 复制

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  • 收稿日期:2022-03-20
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  • 在线发布日期: 2022-08-29
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