北魏木兰服饰形象复原
作者:
作者单位:

北京服装学院,北京 100000

作者简介:

许可心(1998—),女,硕士生,主攻中国古代服装史。

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基金项目:

研究生教育质量提升专项支持(2023-ZX09)


Restoration of Images of Mulan in the Northern Wei Period
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Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100000, China

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    摘要:

    以《木兰诗》中描写的历史为背景,与当下传统服饰复原趋势相结合,立足于绵长的中华传统服饰的历史史实,将诗词故事中的木兰形象具象化。结合文献研究、图像资料、实物分析,对北魏时期木兰形象进行考证。从《木兰诗》中平民女性和军人的双重身份出发,考证出木兰着襦裙的女性形象,以及穿裲裆袴褶的男性军人形象,并对这两套服装进行复原实践。运用三重证据法,在实物、图像和文献三者互为印证的基础上,选取北魏时期代表性的纹样、材质、色彩和款式,并通过染色实验、纹样摹绘和刺绣实践,通过复原实践完成男女装各一套木兰服饰形象。旨在以木兰为人物设定背景,展示北魏这一民族交融时期服饰的特点,同时为木兰形象再创造提供一定的参考资料。

    Abstract:

    The work aims to utilize the historical context depicted in the poem Mulan and combine it with the current trend of traditional costume restoration, to materialize the image of Mulan in poetry and story based on the extensive history of Chinese traditional costumes. The method employed in this paper involves reviewing literary research, image materials, and object analysis to study the image of Mulan during the Northern Wei period. Starting from the dual identity of an ordinary woman and a military fighter in the poem Mulan, this paper investigates the female image of Mulan wearing a ruqun (a type of Chinese women's attire) and the male image of Mulan wearing a liangdang (a waist coat in ancient China) and a kuxi (a military uniform in ancient China). Both sets of clothing are then restored through practical applications using the triple evidence method of object, image, and literary evidence. Representative patterns, materials, colors, and styles from the Northern Wei period are selected and re-created through the processes of dyeing experiments, pattern copying, and embroidery practice, thus representing the image of Mulan with male and female attire. It aims to show the costume characteristics in the Northern Wei period with Mulan as the character background, and provide reference materials for image re-creation of Mulan.

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许可心,李思辛,王晓彤,杨晓瑜,李铭,蒋金秋,蒋玉秋.北魏木兰服饰形象复原[J].工业 工程 设计,2023,5(4):37-46. 复制

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  • 收稿日期:2023-01-20
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  • 在线发布日期: 2023-08-22
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