皮尔斯符号学视角下的“日常汉服”研究
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北京服装学院,北京 100029

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A Study on "Daily Hanfu" from the Perspective of Pierce's Semiotics
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Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029, China

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    摘要:

    针对社交平台上日常汉服的穿搭分享和设计生产的热潮,分析并探索日常汉服及其现象的本质和意义。通过文献分析和词频分析法得出访谈的关键材料,对30名不同行业的汉服研究者、设计师、商家、消费者等进行开放性访谈。利用扎根理论提取三个日常汉服的构成因素,结合皮尔斯符号学,构建以解释项为主导的日常汉服的三元符号表意系统。日常汉服包含“日常性”“建构性”和“文化象征性”三元性质,解答了日常汉服及其现象的内涵特性、实践模式、本质动因意义这三个关键问题,为推动传统服饰的现代日常设计提供理论支撑和实践启示。

    Abstract:

    In light of the upsurge of dress-matching sharing and design production of daily Hanfu on social platforms, the work aims to analyze and explore the nature and significance of the daily Hanfu phenomenon. Through literature and word frequency analysis, key materials of the interview were obtained to conduct open-end interviews with 30 Hanfu researchers, designers, Taobao merchants and consumers from different industries. Based on the grounded theory, three main component factors of daily Hanfu were extracted. Combined with Pierce's semiotics, a ternary symbolic interpretation model of Daily Hanfu was constructed with the interpretant as the leading factor. It is found that daily Hanfu contains three characteristics, namely "daily nature", "modern constructivism" and "cultural symbolism". And the work answers three key questions: connotation, practice mode, essence, reasons and significance of daily Hanfu and its phenomena, and provides theoretical support and practical inspiration for promoting modern daily design of Chinese traditional costumes.

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梁佩琦,邵新艳,梁燕,王保鲁.皮尔斯符号学视角下的“日常汉服”研究[J].工业 工程 设计,2024,6(1):93-110. 复制

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  • 收稿日期:2023-10-22
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  • 在线发布日期: 2024-03-04
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