危机中的设计:以世界大战背景下的意大利与中国的染织服装为例
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1.中央美术学院,北京 100102;2.北京服装学院,北京 100105

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Design in Crisis: Take the Clothing Design of Italy and China in the Context of World Wars as an Example
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1.Central Academy of Fine Arts, Beijing 100102, China;2.Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100105, China

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    摘要:

    基于全球地方史的视野,以服装设计为切入点,讨论战争对设计活动的影响。通过对比世界大战前意大利未来主义服装的兴起与中国的服装运动,探讨全球现代化进程中的民族国家如何应对外部刺激、处理自身关切的问题。将设计放到世界大战的普遍遭遇下,首先,建立意大利与中国的两组个案内在的历史逻辑关联;其次,分别展开阐述二者的服装设计生成过程;最后,发掘战争对设计的关键作用点,以丰富对危机时期的设计之理解。战争可被视作一种激进的现代化形态,讨论世界大战背景下的设计,本质上是在讨论全球化进程中,民族国家对重塑自身文化、维持自身独特性的强烈需求如何实现的问题,在服装设计领域,表现为民族意识的建构诉求,在迈向现代化的整体性历史逻辑下,地方的特殊性使得设计产生了截然不同的走向。

    Abstract:

    The work aims to explore the impact of wars on design activities from the perspective of global local history, with a focus on clothing design. By comparing the emergence of Italian futuristic clothing and Chinese clothing movement before the World Wars, how nation-states, in the process of global modernization, respond to external stimuli and their own concerns is discussed. The design is contextualized within the shared experiences of the World Wars. Firstly, the inherent historical logical connection between two sets of cases in Italy and China is established. Secondly, the processes of clothing design generation before the wars are elaborated upon. Finally, the key nodes where design is affected by wars are discovered to enrich the understanding of design in the times of crisis. In conclusion, wars can be viewed as a radical form of modernization. Discussing design against the backdrop of the World Wars essentially addresses how nation-states meet the strong demand to reshape their cultures and maintain their uniqueness in the process of globalization. In clothing design, this manifests as the construction of national identity. In the overarching historical logic of modernization, the specificity of locality can steer design in a completely different direction.

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黄心仪,赵静.危机中的设计:以世界大战背景下的意大利与中国的染织服装为例[J].工业 工程 设计,2024,6(3):9-16. 复制

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  • 收稿日期:2024-01-24
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  • 在线发布日期: 2024-08-16
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