乾隆时期内务府包衣喜寿服饰形象设计研究——《交泰殿铜壶滴漏·前世传奇》
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苏州大学 艺术学院,江苏 苏州 215000

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国家社科基金艺术学项目(20BG119)


Research and Analysis on the Attire Modeling of Xi Shou as the Booi in the Imperial Household Department During the Qianlong Period: The Legend of Copper Clepsydra in the Hall of Union
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School of Art, Soochow University, Jiangsu Suzhou 215000 China

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    摘要:

    喜寿是乾隆时期内务府包衣,于亲蚕礼前夕负责完成交泰殿铜壶滴漏的校时工作,本文就喜寿服饰造型展开讨论。内务府包衣是服务于皇帝的特殊群体,乃皇帝家仆,属上三旗,故其身份高于下五旗包衣。有官职的包衣,服饰随品级而定,而主人公喜寿为无品级者,正史中鲜有提及这一群体的服饰形制,因此本文以乾隆年间纪实类绘画作品中的无品级内务府包衣形象作参照,以剧情发生时间为背景,结合文献资料进行综合考证,经过梳理与分析后得知,该群体的首服使用无顶珠凉帽,身服由外而内、由上及下为圆领袍、领衣、衬衣、马裤,足服为高筒靴。喜寿的服饰造型在遵照历史原貌的基础上,根据人物设定及故事情境进行特征挖掘,通过色彩与纹样的选择,增强服饰与角色、剧本的契合度。

    Abstract:

    The work aims to discuss the attire modeling of Xi Shou who serves as the booi of the Imperial Household Department during the Qianlong Period and takes charge of setting the copper clepsydra in the Hall of Union on the day before the Rite of Worshiping Silkworm. The booi of the Imperial Household Department refers to the servants of the imperial family, which is a special group and belongs to the upper three banners, with status superior to the booi of the lower five banners. The attire of the booi with an official position varies according to the ranking. However, Xi Shou, the protagonist in this work, without an official position, is rarely mentioned in official historical records regarding the attire. Therefore, with reference to depictions of the booi without an official position in the Imperial Household Department in realistic paintings from the Qianlong Period, based on the background of the storyline and combined with the literature for comprehensive verification, after summary and analysis, it is determined that the headwear of this group is a hat without top decoration and the clothing from outside to inside and from top to bottom is consisted of round-necked robe, collar shirt, underlinen, Manchu saddle pants and high boots as footwear. On the basis of observing the original historical appearance, the attire modeling of Xi Shou undergoes feature mining according to the character setting and story situation, and enhances the fit between attire and role and script through the choice of color and pattern.

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张蓓蓓.乾隆时期内务府包衣喜寿服饰形象设计研究——《交泰殿铜壶滴漏·前世传奇》[J].工业 工程 设计,2024,6(4):20-24, 62. 复制

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  • 收稿日期:2024-02-17
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  • 在线发布日期: 2024-10-09
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